Being in Colombia during the football World Cup

It’s a great time to be in Colombia. Their World Cup team have made history by being the first selection to get through to the quarter finals. Before 2014, the furthest they had got was the final 16 in 1990 and 24 years on, they still replay on television the equalising goal against Germany that made that possible. But now they have new goals to celebrate with James Rodriguez scoring twice for Colombia, winning 2-0 against Uruguay, and propelling them into a quarter final match against Brazil. The Colombians celebrated the victory with such intensity that you would be forgiven for thinking they had won the World Cup.

Fans celebrate the Colombia win against Uruguay. Photo: AFP

 We watched the monumental match in Medellin, most well known (unfairly) for being late drug lord Pablo Escobar’s home town. A big screen was set up in a plaza, in the fashionable neighbourhood of Poblado, and it was surrounded by bars and restaurants. Everywhere was packed, and I’m sure an aerial photo of the plaza would have looked like an abstract version of the Colombian flag with everyone wearing a combination of yellow, red and blue. Entrepreneurs were selling football paraphernalia from supporters t-shirts to annoyingly loud horns that would sound every time a Colombian player got possession. Also for sale was espuma or foam that people would spray when something crucial happened.

The atmosphere was incredible. All ages made up the crowd and in front of us was a family shouting and screaming for their team and drinking Colombia’s national spirit, aguardiente. It looks like water but tastes like the grape spirit, ouzo. We could hardly see the screen as heads and trees blocked our vision, but we knew when we had to crane our necks to get a better view. The crowd would go into the frenzy every time Colombia were near getting a goal and gasps of nervous tension would ripple through the crowd if Uruguay got close.

The first Colombian goal sent an electric wave of jubilation through the crowd and the second goal caused euphoria. Once the match was over the celebrations really began as everyone took to the streets dancing and singing. Foam fights erupted and we got caught in the crossfire, getting completely soaked. It was amazing to be part of.

Celebrating a Colombian goal against Japan in Cartagena.

We went on a walking tour around central Medellin and that gave us an insight into why getting into the quarter finals are such a big deal. Twenty years ago, Medellin was a very different place. Politicians, policemen and anyone who stood in the way of the drug cartel had a decision to make. They could either accept the cartel’s bribes and let them carry on unhindered, or they would receive death threats and often they would be murdered. Pablo Escobar, gave a generous reward to anyone who killed someone on their hit list. That is only one example of this city’s violent history, and there are plenty of others to choose from.

Two Fernando Botero sculptures. One in pieces after a bomb was placed in it at a concert and the explosion killed around 30 people. At the artists request it remains in the park so the people remember and never let it happen again.  As a result, the park is always empty.

The walking tour guide said the Colombian people have a selective memory when it comes to the past, choosing to celebrate the victories and forget the terrors. She said that everyone in Medellin knows someone who has been kidnapped or murdered and retelling that part of their history is too traumatic. When something happens that they can feel proud of, they grab hold of it, and celebrate it with great joy. The guide described it like being stuck in quick sand and when despair sets in, she spots a branch, pulls herself out of danger, and then celebrates being alive.

Win or lose come July 4 when Colombia play football legends Brazil, I predict the Colombians will celebrate. If they loose,  I think they’ll be grateful their team got so far, and well a win, that will be absolute euphoric chaos.